Cher's Overseas Adventure

Thursday, August 11, 2005

First Impressions of Colombo

Singapore with its strong western influence, felt very familiar to me but Colombo seems ever so much more complex, chaotic and confusing.

I now no longer worry about the dangers associated with civil war, as basic transportation seems much more dangerous. Rob is relatively unconcerned about the traffic (apart from the buses) and believes that there are very few accidents. The caption on the front of today’s paper reads “private buses most lethal killers.”

Seat belts are not commonly worn in cars and can’t even be found in some vehicles. On major roads, the lanes are clearly marked however drivers do not necessarily stay within their lane and, like in Greece, it is common for drivers to create an imaginary third lane in the middle of the road, which is used by traffic traveling both directions. People use their horns frequently and strategically not only to protest when traffic comes to a standstill, but also to warn others of their position, avoiding impending collisions.

The most convenient way of getting around the city is in tuk-tuks, small, motorized three wheel carts with drivers. Being a passenger in a tuk-tuk feels similar to being on Roger Rabbits Car Toon Spin at Disneyland where it seems like your cart is going to slam into something but at the last minute you swerve away in another direction. Walking does not seem any safer as crossing the road, even at cross walks, is a challenge and feels as though one is engaged in a life-sized game of frogger. Cars and tuk-tuks are often parked on sidewalks forcing pedestrians into the busy streets.

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While getting around seems chaotic and confusing to an outsider, locals seems to have no problems (or fears) navigating through the city in cars, tuk-tuks or on foot. In fact from a distance, the movement of vehicles and people seem highly coordinated, like Ice Capades or the RCMP Musical Ride. Traffic moves quite well through the city (population 2.2 million) – perhaps it is because there are relatively few traffic lights. (I was told that too many traffic lights were the cause of the gridlock in Singapore.)

With the amount of exhaust and dust on the roads, after one day out and about, my lungs feel like I have been in a smoky bar all night.

Some of the people here are so beautiful, charming, or full of fun, in ways that are not familiar to me, that it is hard for me not to stare. For example, we were welcomed into a shopping centre by a woman in the most beautiful emerald sari. I was mesmerized by her beautiful gown however Rob laughed and told me that this is a uniform for women who work in the store.

Tropical trees and plants, many with beautiful flowers, line the streets, particularly in quieter neighbourhoods.

Garbage disposal in Colombo is different than in Canada. There is no recycling and where our garbage goes is a bit of a mystery. There does not appear to be a centralized garbage collection system and people make do, burning garbage or creating makeshift mini garbage dumps throughout the city.

Unlike Vancouver where the poor are herded into mainly one area of the city (Hastings and Main), here you see poor people throughout the city. Rob has bricks of small bills and always has some money to give away when asked. It is mainly elderly, disabled, and mentally ill who asked for money. Some people are disfigured by polio, which surprised me. Rob tells me “if the people asking for money don’t have hands, you put the money in their pockets”. Why do they not have any hands I ask? During the war he says many people lost their hands making bombs. My first thought is why “doesn’t the government take care of these people?”, and then I think of Hastings and Main.

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